What Is Chikankari? A Complete Guide to the Embroidery Style Everyone Is Wearing
If you have been noticing the same delicate embroidery pattern on lawn suits, kurtas, and maxis lately and wondering what it is, that is chikankari. Simple to identify, difficult to stop wearing.
So, what is chikankari? It is a traditional hand embroidery technique known for fine threadwork, floral motifs, and an unmistakably light feel. Unlike heavy embellishments, chikankari sits softly on fabric — which is exactly why it works just as well for a casual Tuesday as it does for an Eid dinner.
This guide covers the history, the stitches, the fabrics, and everything you need to know before buying.
The Origins of Chikankari
Chikankari embroidery rose to prominence during the Mughal era in Lucknow, where artisans developed it as a craft for royalty. The word itself is believed to derive from the Persian word "chikan," meaning embroidery on fabric.
Over centuries, the craft travelled across South Asia. Pakistan and India both developed their own regional variations — Pakistani chikankari trend toward bolder threadwork and heavier motifs, while the classic Lucknowi style favours finer, more restrained stitching.
Today, the craft is practised across workshops in both countries, though the shift toward machine embroidery has made genuinely handmade chikankari increasingly rare and more valuable.
The Six Main Chikankari Stitch Types
This is where chikankari gets genuinely interesting — and where it differs from every other embroidery style.
Murri — a raised stitch that creates small, rice-shaped knots, usually used for flower centres and accent details.
Phanda — similar to murri but rounder and smaller, used to create fine floral textures across the fabric surface.
Tepchi — a simple running stitch that forms the base outline of most chikankari designs. Most patterns begin here.
Bakhiya — a shadow stitch done on the reverse of the fabric so the embroidery shows through as a soft silhouette. This gives chikankari its characteristic translucent look on white fabric.
Jali — an open lattice stitch that pulls threads apart to create delicate mesh-like cutwork. One of the most recognisable elements of traditional chikankari.
Keel kangan — a combination stitch used for borders and edges, giving pieces a finished, structured outline.
Genuine handmade chikankari uses multiple stitch types on a single piece. Machine chikankari typically repeats just one or two patterns, which is one reliable way to tell the difference when buying.
Fabrics Used in Chikankari
The embroidery only works well on lightweight, natural fabrics. Heavier fabrics distort the threadwork and hide the delicate shadow effects that make chikankari distinctive.
Cotton and lawn — the go-to for everyday and summer pieces. Breathable, soft, and the most widely available in Pakistani ready-to-wear collections.
Chiffon and georgette — used for semi-formal and formal pieces. These fabrics drape beautifully and allow the embroidery to catch light differently as the outfit moves.
Organza — the most structured option, used for formal and bridal pieces where silhouette matters more than everyday comfort.
If you are buying online, always check the fabric composition in the product description. A chikankari design on a cotton-polyester blend will feel noticeably different from one on pure lawn or chiffon.
Modern Chikankari in Pakistani Fashion
Pakistani designers have moved chikankari far beyond its traditional white-on-white origins. Current collections from brands like Khaadi, Cross Stitch, Nishat, and Studio by TCS feature chikankari in pastels, jewel tones, and printed base fabrics with embroidery layered on top.
Popular styles right now include:
Straight-cut chikankari shirts paired with wide-leg pants — a clean contemporary silhouette for casual and smart-casual occasions.
Chikankari co-ord sets — two-piece sets in matching fabric, with the embroidery running consistently across the shirt and trousers.
Long chikankari maxis — full-length pieces, often in chiffon, that work well for weddings and formal dinners.
Short shirts with gharara — a festive combination that pairs the lightness of chikankari with a traditional silhouette.
For colour, mint green, ivory, powder blue, peach, and blush pink remain the most popular because they allow the threadwork to show clearly without competing with the base fabric.
How to Style Chikankari
The main rule is restraint. The embroidery is already doing the work — overloading an outfit with heavy jewellery loses the point entirely.
For casual looks, pair a chikankari kurta with straight trousers or cigarette pants, khussas, and minimal jewellery. The embroidery is the focal point — let it be.
For semi-formal occasions, a chiffon chikankari suit with a coordinated dupatta and small stud earrings is enough. Adding a full set tends to look overdone.
For formal events, a chikankari maxi or structured gharara in organza with statement earrings only — no layered necklaces. Let the fabric and embroidery carry the look.
How to Tell Genuine Chikankari From Machine Embroidery
Genuine handmade chikankari has slight irregularities — threads are not perfectly uniform, stitch spacing varies slightly, and the work feels raised and textured under your fingertips.
Machine chikankari is perfectly uniform. Every stitch is identical. It often looks cleaner in photographs, but loses the depth and character of hand embroidery.
Genuine chikankari also uses multiple stitch types within a single design. If an entire piece uses the same repeating pattern throughout, it is almost certainly machine work.
How to Care for Chikankari
Hand wash in cold water with mild detergent. Do not wring or twist the fabric — gently press out water and lay flat to dry. Embroidery threads can pull and distort if the fabric is machine washed or dried under heat.
For chiffon and organza pieces, dry cleaning is worth considering for anything you plan to wear repeatedly.
Store chikankari pieces folded rather than hung. Hanging lightweight embroidered fabrics over time can stretch the base material around the embroidery points.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is chikankari embroidery made of? Traditional chikankari uses fine cotton or silk thread worked onto lightweight fabrics like cotton, lawn, chiffon, or organza. Classic pieces use white thread on white fabric. Modern collections use coloured thread on pastel and jewel-tone bases.
Is chikankari handmade or machine-made?
Both exist. Genuine handmade chikankari is done by artisans using multiple stitch types with natural variation. Machine chikankari is uniform and mass-produced. Handmade pieces cost more and are harder to find outside specialist retailers.
How is Pakistani chikankari different from Indian chikankari?
Pakistani chikankari features bolder, more visible threadwork and is commonly paired with heavier silhouettes like shalwar kameez and gharara. Indian Lucknowi chikankari tends toward finer, more restrained stitching on lighter fabrics. Both have their own tradition and aesthetic.
Can chikankari be worn in summer?
Yes — cotton and lawn chikankari is one of the best summer fabrics precisely because the embroidery adds no weight or bulk. The lightweight base stays breathable even in warm weather.
Where can I buy authentic Pakistani chikankari suits online?
Brands like Studio by TCS, Khaadi, Cross Stitch, and Nishat all carry chikankari collections with international shipping. Studio by TCS ships directly from Pakistan to the USA and UK with reliable delivery timelines.
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